- First book dedicated to the distinctive and highly imaginative works of Suzanne Belperron, one of the pioneers of modern jewelry
"The documentation paired with the quality of the jewelry makes this volume a real treat for students, gemologists, appraisers, and any jewelry professional who seeks to understand the Art Deco style that Belperron exemplified so masterfully." Gems & Gemology
Suzanne Belperron was one of the most talented and influential jewelry designers of the 20th century. Inspired by the discovery of her personal archives in 2007, the authors of this book have created the first volume dedicated to the life and works of this renowned Parisian jeweler. In 1919 Belperron was employed as a model maker and designer by Germaine Boivin. She contributed enormously to the success of the Maison René Boivin, but in 1932 she decided to leave the company. It was with her associate Bernard Herz, a well known precious stone and pearl dealer, that Belperron first found the freedom to reject traditional jewelry design and manufacture. Fascinated by colored stones, regardless of their value, she created highly innovative pieces in contrast to the standard creations of the time which were mostly angular and set in platinum. Her jewelry was so original that she never signed her pieces, instead insisting 'my style is my signature'.
Indeed, Belperron's avant-garde style was adored by the 'fashionistas' of her time. Her work frequently appeared in Harper's Bazaar and Vogue, and her clientele included most of Europe's royalty and aristocrats as well as bankers, fashion designers, intellectuals and American movie stars. The Duke of Windsor, the Rothschilds, Elsa Schiaparelli, Nina Ricci, Colette, Malet Stevens, Ganna Walska, and Gary Cooper are all known to have frequented Belperron's Parisian workshop. Belperron is often imitated today, and the lack of signature on her pieces can make identifying and dating them very difficult. The discovery of her personal archives was therefore of enormous significance, and makes this publication an essential reference book for enthusiasts of Suzanne Belperron and jewelry in general.
Contents: Life of an Artist; My Style is My Signature; Stones and their Symbolism; Themes and Influences; Clients.
Sylvie Raulet, a history graduate, graphic designer and journalist, has collaborated with magazines such as Beaux-Arts, L Objet d art, Harper s Bazaar and Vogue. She is the author of several books: Bijoux Art déco (1984), Van Cleef & Arpels (1986, 1997), Bijoux des années 1940-1950 (1987), Salon indien (1996) and Cristal de roche (1999). Driven by a rare enthusiasm for jewelry, Olivier Baroin studied at the Louvre and entered the professional art world in 1987, aged just 17. In 2001 he also became a specialist in antique jewelry. Fascinated by the art and personality of Suzanne Belperron, he aquired her entire personal archives in 2007. His knowledge of Suzanne Belperron and almost daily inspection of her order books allows him to trace without ambiguity her original works, some of which have been mistakenly attributed to other jewelers, and also to rule out pieces that were until now wrongly considered to have been designed by her.
